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The Palo mission

Pre-war church of Palo
IN October 1596, Frs. Cristobal Jimenez[i] and Francisco Encinas set out on foot from Dulag to Palo by way of the eastern shores, escorted by one of the leading principales, Don Alonso Ambuyao, and four others. By nightfall  the party was in the Tacoranga (the present-day San Joaquin) River. A boat took them to Ambuyao’s house where they were warmly received. The next morning the missionaries continued their trek until they reached Palo, a settlement located on the bank of a beautiful river, on October 20, celebrating their arrival with a mass.

A number of natives were on hand to welcome them, but the priests soon realized that only two houses, both owned by servants of the encomendero, made up the whole settlement. Soon, the welcome party left the priests and went their separate ways back into the hinterlands where they lived. It was like Dulag all over again, only that its population seemed to be even more dispersed. Some boys who had been to the Dulag school for boys offered to help them and teach them the language.[ii]

Encinas was called to Carigara soon afterward, to be replaced  by Brother Gomez as Jimenez’ companion.  When he had learned enough Visayan to make himself understood, Jimenez started on a tour of his mission. At first, the people suspected him to be a tribute collector, and so refused to open their doors or invite him inside their dwellings.  When an epidemic struck the village, a lot of people got sick, giving him an idea. He looked for the best herbal medicine practitioners in the area and paid them to learn their craft. He knew they were not quacks. They had found effective remedies by trial and error. But their fees were high. If they cured a person of a fatal disease, they charged him his rate as a slave. They charged comparable fees for instructing anyone in their craft. After he acquired native healing skills, he did not charge any fees. That was his entry. He baptized only a few, mostly infants, but he made a lot of friends.[iii]

After the epidemic, a church was constructed and the natives were gradually persuaded to live in the designated settlement. Palo began to grow. On August 15, 1598, the new church was inaugurated and dedicated to Our Lady. Many Spaniards who were in charge of tax collection attended the inauguration. As main celebrant, Humanes, the superior of the Leyte mission, solemnized the baptism of the most influential man in the region, Don Juan Kanganga, whom the Spanish government had appointed petty governor of Palo. Don Francisco Rodriguez de Ledesma, the Spanish alcalde mayor of Leyte, stood as baptismal sponsor. All the datus of the surrounding country came with their retainers to see the neophyte christened Don Juan Kanganga, and afterward performed a ceremonial dance in front of the church to celebrate the occasion.  Don Juan was of great assistance to the missionary in choosing suitable town sites where the clans could be brought together. But here as in Dulag, the opposition of the encomenderos made it slow and difficult work.[iv]

In Chirino’s report, the mission was ‘one of the finest and best regulated in all the island, thanks to the labors of one of our fathers who helped the natives construct good houses. The Christian doctrine is taught every day to the children in all the villages; and so many of them attend this exercise. ‘[v]

When Jimenez left, Fr. Alonso Rodriguez took his place. In one of his letters, he wrote: ‘We held a mission at Paloc;  and the method of teaching the doctrine by decurias[vi] so aroused the enthusiasm of all that within 10 days many learned the prayers and gained all the necessary knowledge for baptism. Such was the emulation among them.’ Fr. Melchor  Hurtado wrote that in San Salvador (Palo) , during the celebration of the Christmas feast, almost 800 infidels were baptized, and that the confessions and communions were such as might be expected back in Spain  – ‘so many that the fathers could not attend to them all.’[vii]



[i] Christoval Ximenes (Cristobal Jimenez) was born in 1573, and entered the Jesuit order in 1588. Coming to the Philippines in 1596, he spent 32 years in the Visayan missions; he died at Alangalang, in Leyte, December 3, 1628 at 57 years old. He was noted as a linguist, and composed various works, religious or poetical, in the Visayan tongue’ one of these was a translation of Bellarmino’s Doctrina Christiana (Manila, 1610) [From letters of Fr. Francisco Vaez,  June 10, 1601, to Rev. Fr. Claudio Aquaviva, SJ General , Emma Helen Blair  and James Alexander Robertson, The Philippine Islands, 1493 – 1803, Volume XI, p. 211]
[ii]Palo: Towards the vast Pacific,” Leyte 400 years…
[iii] Op cit, de la Costa, p. 160
[iv] Op cit, “Palo…” Also see De la Costa’s The Jesuits in the Philippines, p. 161.
[v] Op cit, “Chirino’s  Relation, 1604-05,” p 59
[vi] Decurias: alluding to a custom in Spanish schools of placing the pupils by tens, or sometimes smaller numbers, under the charge of the most competent of the older students, under the supervision of the master of the school. [“Baptisms in Paloc,” Emma Helen Blair and James Alexander Robertson, The Philippine Islands, 1493 – 1803, Volume XIII, p. 98]
[vii] Ibid, p. 164

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